Now the fun part, installation! For modern trim, I recommend using a coil nailer like this one. I find that these same steps usually apply to any of the listed trim above. Measure the two vertical sides of the window, cut two pieces of trim to fit flush along both sides of the window. Nail them into place.
Be sure you are nailing into studs. Next, we are installing the bottom trim board. The one that will only be flush with the edges of the two vertical boards. This measurement is easy since you are now measuring across both vertical boards to come up with the measurement for the bottom board. Remember this measurement for Step 3. Take the measurement from step 2, and add 2 inches to it.
This is so there is an inch of overhang on each end of the top board. Make sure the top board is centered and nail it into place. Be sure to check the top board twice before nailing into place.
It can be easy to get just a bit out of alignment, and this is very noticeable from the ground. Maintaining symmetry is key. The following handling and installation attributes have an effect on the selection of a trim type. Poly-ash, dimensional wood, engineered wood, and PVC can be cut and routed with basic carpentry skills and tools, however carbide blades may be recommended.
More specialized tools are needed for fiber cement. Poly-ash and fiber cement can be fastened with a pneumatic finish nailer. Dimensional wood is the lightest, stiffest and easiest to carry, but it must be stored up off the ground and be kept dry.
Engineered wood is relatively stiff and must be stored in the same manner as dimensional wood. PVC weighs a little less than fiber cement and is very flexible.
In fact, long sections are difficult to carry by one person on a warm day and by anyone under 6-ft. Moisture is not a consideration for storage but it should not be stored on a potentially hot surface such as a paved driveway. Fiber cement is the heaviest and is also brittle. Heat is not an issue with storage, but it must be stored up off the ground and kept dry like wood. Dimensional wood, engineered wood, and fiber cement must be primed on all sides, particularly on the ends when field cut.
Beveled joints are not permitted with engineered wood or fiber cement. Neither beveled joints nor mitered joints are a good idea for dimensional wood. PVC must be installed with gaps depending on the length of the piece and the ambient temperature. Beveled joints should be glued both together and to the substrate to insure it stays closed. Poly-ash requires no priming, gapping, gluing, or caulking. Beveled and mitered joints are permitted.
In the end, if it comes down to a tie between two material types with similar characteristics, the deciding factors are: cost, available profiles and sizes, product availability, and warrantees. The bottom line for all of us, whether installers, builders, manufacturers or homeowners, is that we want our trim to stay exactly where it belongs and hold the finish for a long, long time.
The article never really addressed the big question. What changed? Is it the wood itself- wider grain, different species, cut from skinnier trees? Or is it a scam by the materials companies that want to sell more expensive materials? Not very convincing. No one wants to maintain wood siding and trim these days. Customers see siding jobs, both old and new, shedding paint and are afraid of the maintenance.
The old homes are often just not maintained and look bad, and the new homes with wood siding are peeling paint because of improper installation, no rain screen gap, and inferior materials compared to wood available 75 or more years ago.
Both homeowners and contractors need to be educated on best installation practices and the consequences of ignorance. Customers must be willing to pay for quality wood materials — though the continually increasing costs of the new, alternative materials makes the cost of real wood look better and better. PW, The wood has changed. We no longer use old growth lumber, and yet all of our woodworking techniques are based on using old growth vertical grain lumber.
The wood we use today is mostly from juvenile trees, not ones that are years old but 20 years old. The wood is mostly sapwood, not heart wood; the wood is also mostly facegrain or mixed grain, not vertical grain. Do you think those drainscreen house wraps like Kimberly Clarks BlockIt are adequate for behind wood siding? It is that it is true that framing shrinks if installed with high MC. Most of the movement will be wood shrinking away from the head of the fastener, away from the plywood.
This is also true of ceilings, especially true where the ceiling joist is the bottom chord of a truss- that truss chord will lift and fall with moisture changes, so the perimeter edges should be left unfastened, allowing the drywall to flex, rather than crack the tape or continually pop screws. Screws are nice for PVC and Fly-Ash products because those move because of temperature, and temperature changes happen far more rapidly than moisture content changes.
It moves less than steel, glass, and almost any plastic. InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website. Exterior building trim installation guide, installation methods, and details to avoid trim damage, rot, or loss. This article provides examples of exterior trim rot, delamination, or other damage traced to choice of materials, nailing methods, or omission of adequate flashing or sealant.
Our page top photograph shows delaminating hardboard gable-end trim at the exterior of a building. The best exterior trim details are designed to keep water out but to provide easy drainage for any water that penetrates the exterior. This is particularly important when using trim materials that are vulnerable to decay or moisture damage, such as non decay-resistant softwoods or hardboard. Our photo below left illustrates Steve Bliss's point: the gap that has opened at the window sill and trim provides a ready path for rain to enter the building wall cavity.
Our photo below illustrates soft, deteriorating wood fiber or hardboard exterior trim. In my [DF] experience, hardboard siding and trim don't fare well exposed to the exterior environment and are particularly vulnerable at cuts or surface penetrations.
The hardboard trim in my photo was installed as the water table, a band of horizontal trim at the base of exterior siding around a building. You'll notice that where the nails penetrated the skin of this hardboard trim the deterioration was most rapid. The absence of zee-flashing between the siding bottom and the horizontal surface of the trim board's top also contribute to trim deterioration: water runs behind and along the trim surface.
My second photo above right shows the softening and beginning of deterioration where the hardboard siding nail penetrates its surface. As our photographs illustrate just below, the exposed end grain of wood trim is particularly vulnerable to water absorption and subsequent rot as well as insect damage.
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